DMZ Tour

Saturday, December 14

Fred's one "to do" item was to visit the DMZ so we went all out and did the full day tour. Started at Lotte Hotel where we boarded a very comfy bus with about 40 other passengers and our tour guide Sue. It was about an hour outside of Seoul and nice to see the country side with frozen snow covered rice paddys and bails of hay all wrapped up for the winter.  A stark contrast to the hustle and bustle of Seoul.  

First stop was the showing of passports at a check point.  A S Korean soldier boarded the bus and quickly glanced at all of us holding our passports open. Good to go and off to the Dorasan train terminal we went. This terminal was built as the northern most train terminal in South Korean and as a way to continue on to North Korean. One train a day comes through transporting South Koreans but never ventures up into North Korea though the tracks do extend into there.

We then continued on to the next stop which was the third tunnel. There was a nice little tram car ride down 219 feet into the depths of the earth...not for those with claustrophobia.  Arriving at bottom we were able to walk 5/8 mile within the actual tunnel that was dug by the North Koreans. It was a tight 6 feet by 6 feet often times being held up by metal scaffolding.  Lots of knocks on the head for Fred and I as we walked hunched over most of the way. Good thing for hard hats.  At the end we were able to peer through a hole in a barrier that was 3 feet thick and beyond that was another barrier that was 3 feet thick and yet a third barrier that was 15 feet thick.  This was one of 4 tunnels found by South Korea back in the 1970's and was built to move 300,000 North Korean soldier per hour into Seoul.  Scary to think that North Korea was just 26 miles short of getting to Seoul with this one.  (note that we could only take pictures in certain areas)  

Land mines all around.

Though we really weren't in the DMZ here, we sure were close.

Spring water from the tunnel...
crisp and refreshing though bit frozen.

Not sure what these were but interesting.

One more stop before lunch as we hit another area just outside the DMZ that had some nice views up towards North Korea and a few historical relics. One of which was the Freedom Bridge. This bridge was the place where prisoners of war were exchanged. Another was the Bell of Peace which was built in hopes of achieving national reconciliation and unification of Korea.

Cheap low tech warning system even used today...rocks in the fence. 

Well wishes from loved ones in S Korea to family and friends
in N Korea still being left behind today.

After lunch we then entered into the DMZ area and eventually stepped across the military demarcation line at the Joint Security Area (JSA). We had to first make it through another check point plus add a S Korea soldier to our bus. Along our ride to the JSA, we saw in the distance the one S Korean village and one N Korean village within the DMZ. It was interesting to learn that the S Korean village started out with 45 residents and today has approximately 450. Families that live here are provided many benefits including tax free living, subsidized housing, and males are exempt from the mandatory 22 months of military service. The only way people are added to this village is by marriage or birth. No pictures allowed.

We finally made it to the JSA and after the many rules were shared with us, we exited the bus. Do not carry anything you aren't going to wear (expect camera), no pointing, no sudden moves, no yelling, only single file line, and only 2 points we could take pictures with only 5 minutes to do so. Mind that pictures could only be taken facing to the North Korean side, none facing to the South Korean side. So you bet your bottom that when the tour guide said picture time, it was like ants all over and cameras taking pictures like wild fire.

First picture opportunity was inside the UN conference room. This room is jointly shared by both sides and is used for daily tours on top of other more important things. Our assigned soldier said that the S Korean side runs tours all day every day where as N Korean side may run a few tours in the morning each day. S Korean provides free tours to any S Korean citizen as part of an educational effort.

Fred standing in North Korea

Sarah standing in North Korea

The demarcation line.  South Korea to right, North Korea to left. 

Door to North Korea side. We were told if you tried
to walk behind this guard he would block you.

Second picture opportunity was outside the UN conference room. It was so quiet out here you could hear the freshly melting snow drop all around you. Somewhat eerie and exciting.  As you'll notice there are a number of S Korean soldiers standing outside as they must do this any time there are visitors. When there are no people on the premise only 1 needs to be outside.  You'll see the same holds true for the N Korean side as we only had 1 soldier outside while we were there.

A few other stops while we were on the bus back to the check point to drop off our assigned S Korean soldier. A memorial at the site of a brutal axe murder that occurred over S Korea removing a tree and N Korea not so happy about it. This was back when they allowed N Korea to have military on S Korea side and vice versa in assigned spots.  

The Bridge of No Return was a place once the war was over they allowed prisoners of war to choose between a side. Once you chose that was it, no turning back.